Fast Forward and Backing Up

Since the last post in Auroville, lots of cycling and non-cycling activities happened, during which I concentrated the posting of photos and updates to the facebook group. If you have been following this blog and not the facebook group, sorry for the neglect and consider this encouragement to join the group.

I’m writing now from North Vancouver where I take shelter with family upon newly arriving to the colder climate and wider roads of Canada. While I adapt to the different culture that is familiar, I notice things with some sadness. In keeping with the theme of mobility, here are a few:

- I walked across the street and I waited for a light to tell me when to walk rather than use my own judgement. And everyone around me did the same. The cars and people move according to clearly marked lines and I don’t even have to be present. There is something about the “chaos” of India’s streets that I appreciate because it requires me to be present to the moment. For my mind to be anywhere else except the present moment is to be vulnerable to injury in a serious way. For the short time I was out among Vancouverites today, I noticed that the safe automated road rules enables many to be on mental vacations from the present moment.

- I have spent too much time waiting for lights to turn green. While many processes can take a long time in India, the flexibility of “right rules” allow one to make adjustments according to one’s individual risk tolerance and pace of mobility. Although we are thought of as a more individualistic society in Canda, the way we cross the street is actually more like that of a group following a series of rules rather than engaging thinking of time/distance assessments which is needed to make it to other side of the street in India.

- I feel less trusting of drivers here in Vancouver. Again, because many people are on automatic pilot, I don’t trust people to see me as a pedestrian or cyclist.

- I did not expect to feel unwilling to get on the bicycle upon returning, but that is what happened. Hopefully as I post more stories from the road, my cycling legs will want to engage the pedals again.

Thanks again for visiting and happy cycling!

EV Future

We spent a day in Auroville but not on the Stromer e-bike.  I had the great privilege of meeting Sukrit and Tejas of EV Future who build and sell electric bikes (in Canada we call them scooters).

 

Little Drops, Little Effort, Little Cleaner

left pedal, right pedal...little efforts

To consider the depth and breath of an entire ocean can be overwhelming to the point that one would rather watch the waves than jump in and swim.  I have been here three days and have not yet jumped in.  The above image, captured at the entrance of World Heritage Site, the Shore Temple in Mamallapuram, reminds us that simple solutions are accessible now.  We need not succumb to fears that little task will take “too long” or “not be enough”.  The daunting task of beginning actions towards improvement becomes a little laughable effort with light reminders such as these.

When the cycling has been most challenging and painful, I put my focus on these words: ‘left pedal, right pedal…breathe’ and I loop that in my head until I arrive where I may rest.  Sprinkle in amongst that some daydreams of people everywhere on bicycles, and the struggle transforms.

For this New Year 2012, we invite you to pedal a bicycle towards a cleaner world and a cleaner future.  The little distances travelled, whether on fossil-fuelled vehicle, electric or other, are the little drops making up the ocean of choices we live in and leave behind for our children; and therefore, ourselves.

What kind of ocean do you want to swim in?

sun rising on bicycle by the Bay of Bengal

Happy New Efforts, New Clean, New World!

Fuel

As I write this, the Mamallapuram beach is lined with fishing vessels; piles of fishing nets dot the shoreline of the fisherman’s colony.  Locals are preparing the nets for use by detangling and bundling; perhaps a ritual several days delayed due to the prolonged rain and wind of the recent Cyclone Thane.  A few western tourists wander the beach, taking in the roar of the waves which fold blue depth into white bubbles against the golden grains of sand.

Upon arriving last night, linen and mattress were still damp from the flooding.  It was our intention to be in Auroville this week and Pondicherry on the weekend; however, those who would be receiving us in Auroville advised that we not go there yet.  They  were very hard hit by the cyclone.  The change in my state of health has me complaining more often than usual about common smells such as garbage/plastic burning, human defecation, diesel.  The refreshing sound of the ocean waves is a soothing whisper to the soul.

The goal is to get to Hampi before January 20th.  Ideally, I would cycle the entire distance (581km) within 7-8 days.  If my body strength continues to be comprised as it has been the last 4 days, we would double that estimate.  Another consideration is the power supply in Pondicherry and Auroville being out until further notice.  Cycling an electric bicycle into a zone without electricity is, well…not advisable if one wishes to cycle out.

For now, we shall stay in Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram) to get my body back to a state of optimal fuel efficiency (or something stronger than it is now) and to allow for some time to pass with the hope that the power supplies will return to Auroville and Pondy by the time we arrive January 6th or 7th.

 

Ta Ta Allepey

We had a great value of quiet and clean accommodations at the Venice Residency in Allepey over the last four days.

Here is are a few images from yesterday…

A couple porters moving stromer across rails to the platform where we would board.

This is sleeper class from the outside looking in with Stromer packed in the box.  One is permitted up to 40kg of luggage.  At 25kg. we were well under the limit, despite the awkwardness for other passengers’ feet.  Conveniently, we boarded at the first station and got off at the last stop in Chennai (Madras).

 

 

 

Meet Jaimon Korah, cyclist and pioneer of cleaner transportation in Allepey.  Jaimon was a big help in getting me and Stromer to the Chennai Express on time and together we discovered a refreshing cycle-friendly path along the backwaters!

Till we meet again…

Put “on” in Cycle, we get Cyclone!

The Chennai Express train delivered Stromer ebike and I to Central Station in Madras (Chennai) by 6:30am.

Based on my experience taking the roomy rickshaw in Alappuzha (Allepey), I thought it would be adequate to take a rickshaw from the train station to Paradise Guest House where I am now checked-in.  Adequate it was, but comfortable, it was not.  Stromer and accessory luggage took the entire back seat including leg space.  I said to the driver, “This won’t do.  Where am I supposed to sit?!”  Why he was insisting that I get in the back was beyond my ability to comprehend.  I know I am smaller than average, but I would have had to be paper thin and fold up like origami to fit in the back.  Perhaps if I were in a playful state, I might have tried it and even gotten him to hold the ipod to record the attempt.  Hungry, unkempt and wet, this was not my state of being!  He gives me a common Indian preface to an easy fix,  ”No problem, madam.  Sit here,” and he points to the 2 foot wide drivers seat.  He gets in first so he can access the gas pedal.  I sit with one arm holding the nylon flap in place, protecting the protruding 10 inches of the bicycle box from the rain.

Wet in the rain in Chennai is not the same kind of fun wet one may experience in Vancouver.  Sometimes I’m up for a playful walk in the rain and jumps in puddles.   One look at these Chennai puddles lined with oil and floating plastics, then passing a man pissing on the street (not off the road), the would-be playfulness withers quickly.  I become hyper-conscious of the extreme opportunity for my immune system to get a work-out!

So what’s next?  Today Stromer stays in the box while figuring out where we go tomorrow.  We had wanted to go to Pondicherry or Auroville for New Year’s Eve but I’m told these parts were hit the hardest by Cyclone Thane.  Electricity is out and accommodations are full.  Tune into tweets @janicevillage to get more frequent, in the moment updates on where we go next.

Thanks for visiting!

Cycled with a Keralan Local – Jaimon Korah

Congratulations and a big thank you to Jaimon Korah for being the first Indian to cycle with me on this journey.  Jaimon is the head of Kerala state operations for a Canadian air-conditioning company.  I met him yesterday as I passed him at the beach hollaring, “Nice bike!”  With one invitation to go for a cycle, we were off this morning to get out of the city and off the pavement.  A super fun ride with beautiful green scenery all around.  Some parts were very narrow and bumpy, difficult to handle and super fun.

passing thought to cross it with our bicycles...

houseboats are transformed cargo boats and backwaters the historical highways for trade

See the twitter feed for more of today’s images/videos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Initially, I had been really keen on spending a night on a famous Allepey houseboat.  Budget restraints and a recommendation from a fellow traveller led me to take the canoe on Monday and today, on Stromer.  While it looks comfy and I’m sure it’s a nice ride, it feels right that we didn’t get on one.  Most are run on diesel and use huge generators (also fueled by diesel) to power the air-conditioning.  Jaimon told me about the solar ferries used in Venice and we think, why not here in Kerala’s backwaters?  We transformed the cargo boats once, why not an upgrade to solar-powered houseboats?

 

Ernakulam on Dec. 23th

Why I spent time only in Fort Kochi rather than exploring mainland Ernakulam (aka, Kochi).

This video was taken on my way to a main road from a side street that was bustling with holiday-making activity (mostly shopping and movement of products).  The only thing the camera does not convey is the toxic fumes that one takes in at times like these; such traffic locks can last as far longer than my lungs can tolerate it.  While these vehicles stood still for who-knows-how-long, I was able to squeeze through on the e-bike.

In the congested cities, I am often getting somewhere faster and paying less (or no rupees) for fuel and parking.  And, it is very often that bicycle parking is right at the entrance.  Air conditioning?  The breeze does a good job at 20+km/hr.

Lazy Day on Backwaters

I learned a few interesting things during a boat tour  of Allepey’s backwaters:

1. A tank of gas on the public government ferry takes 650 litres.  At Rs60 per litre, that is  Rs39,000!

2. The other ferry reportedly uses 200litres per day; a cost of Rs12,000 daily and immeasurable damage to the waters from diesel spill and plastic pollutants from people, both local and tourists.

Our tour guide was charismatic and diligent, entertaining my new friend, Tuomas from Finland, and I in his home for breakfast: bananas and rice noodles sprinkled with sugar and milky masala chai.  We ate as the Keralan villagers do and sat as guests in Kunjachen’s boat which is made of a local wood and fibreglass. 

At the age of 60, Kunjachen demonstrated strength, agility and stamina of one 45.

 

 After a full 9 hour day of touring 13 kms of Kerala backwaters on a boat, we met this girl, wearing the theme of the day.

 

Merry Allepey

Merry Christmas from Aluppuzha!  May this find you well connected to peace and love as the backwaters are connected to mosquitoes!

I have the four minute countdown till the closing down of this cybercafe so its staff may go home to party it up.  There is a huge festival happening that isn’t appropriate to take Stromer to so we came here to connect with all of you.

We started the day to sounds of Christmas songs played on loudspeakers from homes and churches in Fort Kochi.  And the streets and trees were strewn with colours and lanterns.

 

 

 

 

Below is a giant Santa in a park south of Fort Kochi heading towards Allepey.

Apologies for the photo tilt.  At time of publishing, the web did not offer a rotation edit option.

More news tomorrow, or when I can next get on the web.  I just found out that Aluppuzha does not have wi-fi anywhere public.